| 화장품 성분 연구 |
| 1 | 요약설명 | 하이드록시피나콜론레티노에트는 트레티노인(스티바, alltransretinoic acid)의 에스테르이다. 트레티노인(스티바)보다 자극이 적고 콜라겐생성은 유사하다. 레티날(레틴알데하이드)이나 레티놀보다 콜라겐생성 높다. |
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| 2 | INCI | |||
| 3 | 한글전성분명 | |||
| 4 | 동의어 | |||
| 5 | 물리화학적 특징 | 화학식 | ||
| 구조식 | ||||
| 분자량 | ||||
| 실온형상 | ||||
| 끓는점 | ||||
| 녹는점 | ||||
| 용매 | ||||
| 6 | 원료 정보 | 원료 공급사 | ||
| kg당 가격 | ||||
| 주사용 농도 | ||||
| 100g 제품당 성분가격 | ||||
| 7 | 생산 방식 | |||
| 8 | 성분에 대한 역사 | |||
| 9 | 효능 | 경구복용효능 | ||
| 국소도포 효능 | Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models jaad.2018.05 Tretinoin, also known as all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA), is well known for its antiaging effects on skin. However, skin irritation, photochemical instability, and concerns about toxicity have hindered the use of ATRA in cosmetic products. Typically, milder retinoid derivatives are used, which must first be metabolized to more active forms by several enzymatic steps in the skin, which reduces their potency. Therefore, it is desirable to find new molecules that have increased retinoic acid–like activity without the negative side-effects. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), a cosmetic grade ester of ATRA, is unique in that it processes innate retinoic acid activity, binding directly with retinoid receptors without the need for metabolic breakdown to more biologically active forms. It has been demonstrated to be more stable and cause less skin irritation than retinol. Here, we compared levels of gene transcription by HPR, ATRA, retinol (Rol), retinaldehyde (Ral), and retinyl palmitate (RP) by evaluating binding of the retinoic acid receptor to retinoid acid responsive elements (RARE) in DNA using a RARE reporter assay. In addition, we compared the antiaging properties of HPR to ATRA by testing the effects on collagen levels and skin irritation in organotypic skin models. Skin models were treated for 5 days with three doses of HPR and ATRA; vehicle controls skins were treated with vehicle alone. Basal media was collected for procollagen and 1L-1α ELISA analysis. On day 5, skins were fixed, paraffin embedded, sectioned, and stained with Masson trichrome (for collagen). RARE assay results showed that HPR had greater levels of gene transcription than Rol, Ral, and RP at the same concentrations, and was less cytotoxic to cells at a 10 times higher concentration; however, HPR did not achieve gene transcription levels of ATRA. Procollagen ELISA results showed that skins treated with HPR significantly increased procollagen production compared with untreated control skins, and was similar to ATRA. Qualitative assessment of collagen levels from histologic staining of skins corroborated these results, with the highest dose of HPR out-performing ATRA. IL-1α ELISA analysis showed that HPR did not induce more (or less) inflammatory response than either ATRA or the vehicle control. Together these data suggest that HPR is an effective alternative to ATRA and other less potent retinoids in the treatment of aging skin without the detrimental side-effects. 출처) https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(18)31012-0/abstract |
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| 10 | 화장품내 기능
주기능● 부기능○ |
용제 | ||
| 계면활성제 | ||||
| 발림성제 | ||||
| 점증제 | ||||
| pH조절제 | ||||
| 킬레이팅제 | ||||
| 향 | ||||
| 방부제 | ||||
| 효능성분 등 | ● | |||
| 11 |
효능성분 (DOSPAW-O) 주효능● 부효능○ |
DRY 보습제 |
장벽개선제 | |
| 함습제 | ||||
| 밀폐제 | ||||
|
OILY 항오일제 |
피지분비 억제제 (5a-reductase inhibitor 억제제) | |||
| 피지분비 억제제 (피지선 세포 사멸제) | ● | |||
| 피지흡착제 | ||||
| 각질제거제 | ● | |||
|
SENSITIVE 항염제 |
NFkB 억제제 | ● | ||
| phospholipase 억제제 | ||||
| Cycloxygenase 억제제 | ||||
| 장벽개선제 | ||||
|
PIGMENT 색소억제제 |
tyrosinase 억제제 | |||
| 멜라닌 이동 억제제 | ||||
| 각질제거제 | ||||
|
ACNE 여드름억제제 |
피지분비 억제제 (5a-reductase inhibitor 억제제) | |||
| 피지분비 억제제 (피지선 세포 사멸제) | ● | |||
| 각질제거제 | ● | |||
| 항균제(MIC) | ● | |||
| 항염제 | ● | |||
|
WRINKLE 주름억제제 (표피) |
표피세포증식제 | ● | ||
| 표피세포분화제 | ||||
| 장벽기능개선제 | ||||
|
WRINKLE 주름억제제 (진피) |
섬유아세포증식제 | |||
| 콜라겐섬유생성제 | ● | |||
| 탄력섬유생성제 | ● | |||
| GAGs생성증가제 | ● | |||
| 콜라겐섬유분해감소제 | ● | |||
|
OXIDANT 항산화제 |
항산화제 | ● | ||
| 12 | 완제품 정보 | 주요 함유 제품 | ||
| 닥터오라클 제품 | ||||
| 13 | 결론 | 하이드록시피나콜론레티노에이트는 레티놀성분이나 레티날성분보다 자극은적고 콜라겐재생효과가 높아 향후 레티노이드 화장품의 대안으로 주목받을 것으로 본다. | ||
| 14 | 인용논문 | 출처) https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(18)31012-0/abstract | ||